style is life

East meets west as Harlem a place known for serving up food for the soul, opens up a new location on the trendy Queen West strip. Underground the latest addition to the Queen Bathurst intersection is in good company. With The Drake, Nyood and celebrated Vintage store Cabaret just minutes away, the neighbourhood is quickly becoming the place to stroll. Picture this, its 9 02 in the p.m., I’ve been there since the 6 0’ clock hour, “Lately” the sexy ballot from RNB Baritone Tyrese oozes from the jukebox. The lights go down as Common tells me “I’m the object of his affection”. I sip on red wine, a South African attempt, nothing special, Merlot I believe. Superstar Sommelier Curtis Elson would just die, no tone definition, no region suggested? The lights dim, the chatter chimes, gains ever so slightly. I’ve already sampled the ribs, the day’s special and loved the curried cole slaw. As I awaited Collard greens, my first try at the leafy veggie, it arrives at my table to anticipated hands and mouth. A ginger infused mélange, it’s composed with Belle peppers, and straps of carrots. In the sauce I detect some sort of cream, coconut I suspect, fragrant hints of garlic and something from the onion family rounded out the mash up. Erica Badu along with what seems to be a grain of sand abruptly breaks the satisfaction. Anthony Mair, Co owner senses something a miss once I started picking out the carrot strings and heads over to salvage the situation. The appropriate banter breaks the ice and he sneaks in the appropriate how is it? I then relayed the graining message, “taste like sand”, a familiar grind to unwashed asparagus. Cue the apology and the anything else from the menu? Cue the take away and the “shall I bring it all together”. After watching the shuffle in the kitchen, out pops Server Joanne with my 2nd try at cornbread and now collards, thankfully, sand free.

A nice spot for Jazz, jive and fair, the decor is reminiscent of my interpretation of The Colour Purple’s Harpos less the bump and grind. The decor is what I would call “rustic red” anchored by a grand RED chandelier. Opulence is the objective and it’s achieved. The ceiling, a well crafted feast for the eyes, is tiled and adorned with fluer-du-lis, the symbol of Royalty, of the gold variety, of course. Artist Moses Kofi’s masterpiece adorne the walls highlighted in rugged door and window frames. The style is offset photography, an art that resembles layering, one image on top of another. Clean lines lead out to the backyard patio where co Owner and Artist Carl Cassell, known for pieces made from acrylic hair, adds dept to the laid back ambiance. A quad like set up with a BBQ pit in the back is my favourite part because its home to a table that encourages me to “drink more red strip”, a fond reminder of home. It’s a place I could fall in love with or in on Friday Afternoons.

Harlem Underground is located at:

745 Queen St. West
Toronto ON M6J 1G1
416.366.4743
info@harlemrestaurant.com
www.twitter.com/harlem1920

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